How to Crochet for Beginners: A Step-by-Step Guide
Start crochet with a clear written guide to tools, slip knots, chains, US single crochet, turning, counting, and finishing, with links to each detailed lesson.
Researched written guide · Includes sourced technique explanations and illustrative examples. No hands-on testing or original demonstration photographs are claimed. How we work.
To start crocheting, you need yarn, a crochet hook, and a few basic moves: make a slip knot, crochet a chain, and work stitches into that chain. This guide walks you through a small practice swatch in US single crochet (called UK double crochet) so you can learn how to start, turn, count, and finish a flat piece.
You do not need perfect tension or polished edges on your first try. The goal is to learn how each stitch is made and where the next one goes.
US and UK terminology
This guide uses US crochet terms. US single crochet (sc) is UK double crochet (dc). Check our US vs UK crochet terms chart before following a pattern in an unfamiliar system.
What you need to start crocheting
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Smooth, light-colored yarn: Medium-weight yarn is a practical choice for practice because stitches are easier to see than in very fine or fuzzy yarn.
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A crochet hook: start with the millimeter size recommended on your yarn label. The Craft Yarn Council gives 5.5–6.5 mm as a general crochet-hook range for category 4 medium yarn. This is guidance, not a requirement; project gauge takes priority.
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Scissors to cut the yarn when you finish.
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A yarn needle for weaving in the yarn tail.
A tape measure and stitch markers can also help, but they are not essential for this first swatch.
Learn the basic crochet terms
Working yarn: The strand connected to the ball or skein.
Yarn tail: The loose end left when you begin or finish.
Loop on the hook: The active loop that stays on your hook as you crochet. It does not count as a stitch.
Yarn over (yo): Bring the working yarn over the hook so you can catch it and pull it through.
Stitch: A completed crochet unit. In a row, look for the small V across its top.
Row: A line of stitches worked across the piece. Turn at the end of a row to work back in the other direction.
Tension: How loosely or tightly you hold and work the yarn.
Step 1: Hold the hook and yarn comfortably
You can hold a crochet hook like a pencil or like a table knife. Neither is the only correct grip. Choose a position that lets you move the hook comfortably.
The yarn hand controls how the working yarn feeds to the hook. Try passing it over or between your fingers until it slides smoothly. You only need enough control to keep the yarn from drooping or pulling tight.
If your hand gets uncomfortable, pause and relax your grip. Beginners often tighten their hands as they concentrate. That can make it hard to pull the hook through loops.
Step 2: Make a slip knot
A slip knot creates the adjustable loop on your hook. See two ways to make a slip knot for a fuller explanation.
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Leave a short yarn tail and make a loop with the yarn.
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Pull a small section of the working yarn through that loop to form another loop.
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Put the new loop on the hook.
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Adjust the strands gently until the knot sits below the loop and the loop slides along the hook shaft.
The knot should be snug enough to stay on the hook but loose enough for the hook to move through it. You will still have one active loop on the hook.
Step 3: Crochet a foundation chain
A foundation chain is a line of linked chain stitches. Read our chain stitch guide for the counting details.
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Hold the base of the slip knot so it does not slide.
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Bring the working yarn over the hook from back to front.
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Use the hook to catch the yarn and pull it through the loop already on the hook.
You have made one chain stitch. Repeat those steps to make more. The active loop remains on the hook; do not count it as a chain stitch. Count the small linked shapes below it. Try to keep them loose and similar in size. If you cannot insert the hook into a chain later, the chain may be too tight.
Tip: If your chains keep coming out very tight, try consciously loosening your grip. Some beginners also find it easier to make the chain with a hook one size larger, then switch back for the next row. If you do this, make sure you can comfortably insert your usual hook into the chains.
Step 4: Work your first row of US single crochet
For the supplied practice example, chain 23 and work into chains 2 through 23: that gives 22 US single crochet stitches. The count is checked on paper; we have not physically tested this as an original project pattern. Our single crochet guide explains each stitch in more detail.
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Hold the chain so you can see the links. Insert under one strand of each chain link consistently for this example; use another placement if your pattern specifies it.
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Skip the chain closest to the hook. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook.
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Yarn over and pull the yarn through the chain. You should now have two loops on the hook.
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Yarn over again and pull through both loops.
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You have made one US single crochet stitch. One loop remains on the hook.
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Insert the hook into the next chain and repeat across.
At the end of the foundation chain, count your stitches. You should have 22. If you have fewer, you may have skipped a chain or missed one. If you have more, you may have worked into the same chain twice.
UK term: Each US single crochet in this row is a UK double crochet.
Step 5: Turn and make the next row
At the end of the first row:
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Make one chain. This is the turning chain for this US single crochet swatch.
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Turn the piece so you can work back across it.
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Insert the hook into the first stitch of the previous row, directly beside the turning chain.
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Work one US single crochet into each stitch across.
For this basic US single crochet example, the chain at the beginning of each row is not counted as a stitch. Work into the first stitch rather than skipping it. Keep the row at 22 stitches.
Continue making one turning chain, turning your work, and crocheting one US single crochet into each stitch until the swatch is several rows tall.
Turning-chain instructions can vary by stitch and pattern. Some patterns count a turning chain as a stitch, especially for taller stitches. Follow the pattern’s directions and stitch count rather than assuming every pattern uses the same rule.
Step 6: Find and count your stitches
After a few rows, look along the top edge. Each stitch looks like a small V. Put the hook under both top loops of each V unless your pattern tells you to work differently.
To check a row:
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Count each V across the top, including the first and last stitch.
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Do not count the loop on the hook.
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Do not count the turning chain in this US single crochet example.
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Look at the ends of the row carefully. The first or last stitch can be easy to miss.
A stitch marker placed in the first or last stitch of a row can help you find the edge on the next pass.
Step 7: Fasten off and weave in the end
When you have made enough rows for practice:
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Cut the yarn, leaving a tail long enough to weave in.
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Pull the cut end all the way through the loop on your hook.
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Gently snug the end so the final stitch does not come undone.
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Thread the tail through a yarn needle and weave it through several stitches on the back of the work.
Avoid pulling the tail so tightly that it puckers the fabric. If the piece will be washed or handled often, secure the end through more than one direction of stitches.
Common beginner problems and how to fix them
Foundation chain is very tight: You may be pulling the yarn firmly as you make each chain. Relax your grip and make the next chain with a more open loop. You can also test a larger hook for the chain.
Edges get narrower: You may be missing the first or last stitch in some rows. Count stitches across each row and mark the first and last stitch. For this practice swatch, aim for 22 each time.
Edges get wider: You may be working into the same edge stitch twice or counting the turning chain as a stitch. Identify the first stitch before beginning the row. In this example, work into the first stitch beside the turning chain, and do not count the chain as a stitch.
Stitches are difficult to see: Dark, textured, or fuzzy yarn can hide the top loops. Practice with smooth, light-colored yarn and work in good light.
Hook catches when pulling yarn through: The loops may be too tight, or the hook may be turned toward the yarn. Make the loops a little looser and angle the hook head down as you pull through.
First row looks uneven: Foundation chains can be tricky to work into, and that is common while learning. Focus on finding each chain and completing one stitch in it. Practice with another short swatch before starting a project.
If your stitches are uneven but your row count is consistent, you can keep practicing. Consistent counting is more useful at this stage than trying to make every stitch identical.
What should you learn after single crochet?
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Slip stitch: Often used to join stitches or move across a piece without adding much height.
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Half double crochet: A taller stitch; called half treble (htr) in UK terms.
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US double crochet: a taller stitch called treble (tr) in UK terms.
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Reading a crochet pattern: follow abbreviations, repeats and stitch-count checkpoints.
Before starting a pattern, check whether it uses US or UK terminology. A pattern written in UK terms that says dc is asking for a different stitch from a US pattern’s dc.
Frequently asked questions
Is crochet hard to learn?
The first few steps can feel unfamiliar because one hand holds the yarn and the other moves the hook. Start with a short chain and a small swatch. It is easier to see how the stitches work when the practice piece is simple.
Does the loop on my hook count as a stitch?
No. The loop on your hook is the active loop used to make the next stitch. Count completed stitches in the row, not the active loop.
What is the difference between US and UK crochet terms?
Some stitch names shift between the two systems. A US single crochet is a UK double crochet; a US double crochet is a UK treble crochet. Chain is commonly abbreviated ch in both systems. Check the terminology listed in a pattern before you start.
What should a beginner crochet first?
A small, flat practice swatch is a useful first exercise because it lets you practice chains, turning, stitch placement, and counting without needing shaping or assembly. Once you are comfortable, choose a simple pattern that clearly lists its terminology and materials.
Your next step
Choose the next guide that matches what you need: single crochet for stitch placement, pattern reading for notation, or magic rings when a center-out pattern calls for an adjustable start. Use an established designer’s complete pattern when you move from practice to a finished project.
The Crochet Guild of America’s illustrated single crochet lesson provides right- and left-handed views if the written hand movements are difficult to picture. Those are the publisher’s illustrations, not photographs made by Loop & Linen.
Sources and editorial note
Sources checked on 29 October 2026:
- Craft Yarn Council — standard yarn weight guidelines
- Crochet Guild of America — single crochet technique
- Craft Yarn Council — chain stitch
- Craft Yarn Council — reading, counting and turning
- Annie’s Attic — hook and yarn setup
AI assisted with drafting, editing and source checking. This is a researched text guide, not a filmed demonstration or a physically tested original pattern. Count examples are checked on paper. See our editorial policy and corrections process.